(Money Point: Sept. 12, 2021)

Legend has it that Money Point earned its name after a ship wrecked near its shores many years ago. Aboard the ship's cargo were gold and silver coins to be paid to troops in Quebec. The story goes that the coins continued to wash ashore for years after the wreck. And while the coins no longer grace this coastline, its name, Money Point, is still fitting. This northernmost part of Cape Breton Island is rich in rugged beauty. There is something compelling about this coastline that draws you in and fills you with peace and tranquility.

I was fortunate enough to make the trek to this part of the island recently. It was no easy task to get there though. The road into the trailhead is sometimes impassable by car due to large ruts that snake the steep road, but I arrived after fresh gravel was laid. The trail itself is an old, narrow road once used by the lighthouse keepers. As I make my way to the shoreline, it is hard to imagine a vehicle making its way up and down the steep mountainside. Before the road was built, passage to and from Money Point was was possible only by boat. When the road came, the lighthouse keeper at the time was supplied with a jeep. The front engine bearings would burn out repeatedly. Eventually they realized the mountain's steep incline caused the motor oil to drain to the back of the vehicle leaving no lubrication for the front.

As I near the bottom of the mountain, the trees give way to a glorious view of St. Paul Island off in the distance.  From here, you can wander left or right. I turned left hoping to see the infamous horses I'd heard about. The path meanders along green pastures sandwiched between mountains and rocky coastline. It is absolutely stunning. I stopped to watch some seals as they pop their heads up near some rocky outcroppings.  A German tourist has also stopped to watch. He excitably explained that this was the first time he had ever seen "sea wolves", as he called them. 

Suddenly a hawk flies overhead as I approach some old guard rails where the trail becomes very narrow. The bent and crooked rails hanging over the cliffside bring to mind how dangerous this must have been to drive here. Honestly, I'd rather walk.

   


Along the way, to the left, I see the skeletal tower that was put there to mark Cape North. The lighthouse was originally built in 1856 and stood in Cape Race, NFLD. Unfortunately, shipwrecks continued at Cape Race until finally it was decided a stronger light was needed. The lighthouse then made it’s journey to Cape North where it stood from 1911 until 1980, when it was dismantled and shipped to Ottawa’s National Museum of Science and Technology. It sits there still, surrounded by large limestone boulders to replicate a rocky Atlantic shore.

There are other bits and pieces of old remnants including a couple of crumbling foundations. And finally, la piece de resistance, the horses. Such majestic creatures. Their beauty and size is almost overwhelming. One horse in particular keeps a close watch as I approach the path where they graze. He stands, his black coat flecked with grey and white, while his watchful eyes keep me in view. His gaze never waivers. The others ignore me until he comes to greet me. Then another comes to say hello while the other two continue to graze happily. Even as I walk away, that one horse keeps watch.

                                                  
                                                                        

At this point it is late afternoon. I still need to make my way back up the mountain. My eyes drift to the top of it, 497 metres (1630 ft) high. It's intimidating to say the least. After a short rest, the climb begins. And to my surprise, I had a much harder time with the descent.  As I say goodbye to this beautiful place, I am already making plans to come back.