The ocean can be hard to find in Cape Breton. Heck, the ocean can be hard to find in Nova Scotia. “Where is the ocean?” I hear that from visitors often. Being born and raised in Ontario, it was something I was drawn to for most of my life. I'm sure I have the same dreams as international people that decide to come here from Germany, Saudi Arabia, China. We are in the Maritimes, right? Then why is the ocean so hard to find?
Let’s put ourselves in the shoes of the visitor then, shall we? When searching for information about the ocean, one often stumbles across Peggy’s Cove. What makes Peggy’s Cove different than any other place in Nova Scotia? It is where you are guaranteed to see the ocean. It is marketed that way. People like me that year for that trip to the east coast are told that they can see the ocean there. The ocean is really the main offer and what drives visitation to the site, and it has spurned many local businesses as a result.
A person can drive from Ontario, Quebec, New Brunswick and around all of Nova Scotia on the main roads without really seeing much of the ocean. When they get to North Sydney the figure they might be able to get a glimpse if they take the ferry to Newfoundland, but with the impending conversion of Archibald’s Wharf recreational and tourism centre from public green space to industrial development that is even a bit of a stretch.
So what is the issue? The majority of people coming from Quebec, Ontario and many other places are coming to see the culture, beaches and other activities that have one thing that has makes them stand out from everywhere else - the ocean and what it has to offer. It offers much more than direct economic benefits from industry alone, but it seems to be the last thing anyone ever pays attention to.
Is it taken for granted? I feel that the ocean is seen only as a resource for industry when it is really capable of providing so much more. There is very little integration of ocean experiences with other assets that Cape Breton has to offer and is known for. A city that can integrate and showcase it’s number one asset provides something worth visiting and staying. We see this in many other places.
I lived in Cape Breton Regional Municipality for 3 years before I even knew there was a boardwalk at the waterfront. Large hotels has taken up the viewscapes, and the boardwalk is a mere alleyway running behind these structures with no real inviting entrance or exit. There is also talk now of another large structure going in.There have been some recent developments that have improved the experience, but these developments have been centered more around cruise ships rather than the majority of visitors to Cape Breton Island. Clearly viewscapes have not been an important factor in planning in the past in industrial Cape Breton, and they would be a key element of a sustainable downtown core. We are left with this legacy and now that things have been developed it is hard to reverse, even if it was given some level of priority. I guarantee people go downtown just to see how the waterfront compares to Halifax. Past planning practices that neglected ocean viewscapes can be seen in other areas as well, such as Glace Bay and Louisbourg. The ocean is hidden from view from the main streets, when it should be part of our invitation to visitors.
Then there are the secret gems - really special places where people can experience the ocean that are hidden away. The Louisbourg Lighthouse Trail, Kennington Cove Beach, the Ruins Walk at the Fortress of Louisbourg, Morrison’s Beach near Framboise, White Point north of Smokey, and many, many more breathtaking experiences. We know they exist. The problem isn’t access to the ocean; it’s recognizing the potential importance of these areas to tourists and linking them with activities they are seeking. Perhaps people just want to keep these places a secret, like fishing holes.
So what is the solution? Can we develop a map of best kept secrets? Where do you think they are? Perhaps it’s more about how we describe the experience, promote them, and invest in them. It worked for Peggy’s Cove to attract one million visitors per year. I ask you. What makes it so special? There are at least four places in Cape Breton that are just like it.
If you find the ocean, let me know. I journeyed this way 15 years ago after longing to see the ocean my whole life, as do many others each year. I found the ocean, but it took some hunting, and it really took me living here to find the best places.The ocean has shaped this place and it’s about time that it received the recognition it rightly deserves.
Chris Bellemore is a writer and musician from Ontario that moved to Cape Breton Island and is logging his experiences in this strange and wonderful place.
https://www.facebook.com/chris.bellemore
https://soundcloud.com/crispbellemono
Hey Cape Breton...where is the ocean?
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